The DMZ

We had the chance to visit the 'Joint Security Area' (JSA) and the Swiss delegation to the ‘Neutral Nations Supervisory Commission' (NNSC) at Panmunjom - slap bang in the middle of the Demilitarized Zone, marking the frontier of the most heavily fortified border on the face of this planet. We, eight Swiss students, were invited to the Swiss Delegation to NNSC.

So, the DMZ... I don't really know where to start. I'd envisaged writing a jovial email in which I jumped up and down and shouted, "I've been to North Korea!!", but after the day's experience, that doesn't really seem appropriate. I'd have expected the massive military infrastructure along the frontier of the Demilitarized Zone itself, but I wasn't prepared for just how far it extended outside that area. Nor was I prepared for how sharply it would be brought into focus that Korea is a country still at war...with itself. I suppose I'll start at the beginning.

We took the train (a very slow one), which soon will be the only train route between North and South Korea. About a half an hour's drive north of Seoul, the razor wire starts. We were picked up by a Swiss Major at the last train station of this route, not far away from the DMZ. We all got into a small bus. As we approached the bridge over the Imjin, we came to our first military checkpoint. To access the bridge itself, we had to pass through an anti-tank blockade. The bridge is then lined on both sides by the same steel fence, crowned with razor wire, and is peppered with (presently dormant) roadblocks and other anti-tank devices. A kilometer or so further on, along a road bearing the same razor wire fortifications that are rapidly becoming ubiquitous; we reached Camp Bonifas, the US Army outpost on the edge of the DMZ itself. Their motto is ' In Front of Them All.' It may be cocky, but in this instance it's also true. We drove thru this camp right to the Swiss NNSC Delegation camp. Now it got serious - entering the DMZ itself.

As we arrived unhurt at the NNSC camp we got a first presentation about the DMZ and after that we drank coffee and had some small talk with the Swiss soldiers. There are now five of them; 50 years ago there were about 100. Their job is very interesting, but dangerous. Right next to the Swiss camp is the Swedish camp, but we did not meet any of the Swedes. After the obligate picture taking procedure we all entered the bus again heading camp Bonifas. There then followed another slide presentation, during which we were given a history of the DMZ and the JSA including some of the incidents that have occured therein. One of them in particular is worth mentioning. In 1976, the JSA was a little different than it is today. Then, there were no restrictions on where in the area either side could have positions (in terms of north or south of the border). The N Koreans quickly responded to this by erecting three positions at the very southernmost extreme, thereby completely triangulating a US checkpoint. To make matters worse for the unfortunate individuals stationed within it, a large Poplar tree obscured them from the nearest other US position. The UNC therefore decided to fell it. Within minutes of the work detail commencing their job, they were attacked by 28 N Korean soldiers. In what came to be known as 'The Axe Murders Incident', three US soldiers were hacked to death. After a change in the regulations, so that the North could only have positions north of the border (or 'Military Demarcation Line' as it was referred to throughout the day) and vice-versa, there followed what must surely be the most expensive tree felling operation ever carried out. To ensure that no northern interference re-occurred, thousands of troops, vehicles, artillery, and even a warship were assembled. It cost $4 Million to cut down one tree.

It was rapidly becoming clear that comparatively safe as it might be, this is a war zone. Inside the base I took a 'Visitor's Declaration', which normal visitors have to sign (we didn't, because we were guests to the NNSC). I quote: "The visit to the Joint Security Area at Panmunjom will entail entry into a hostile area and possibility of injury or death as a direct result of enemy action. Guests of the United Nations Command are not permitted to cross the Military Demarcation Line into the portion of the Joint Security Area under control of the Korean People's Army. Although incidents are not anticipated, the United Nations Command, the United States of America, and the Republic of Korea cannot guarantee the safety of visitors and may not be held accountable in the event of a hostile enemy act.......Fraternization, including speaking or any association with personnel from the Korean People's Army/Chinese People's Volunteers (KPA/CPV) side is strictly prohibited.....Visitors will not point, make gestures or expressions which could be used by the North Korean side as propaganda against the United Nations Command.....The area and buildings under the military control of the communist side will not be entered for any reason. Permission of the guide must be obtained prior to entry to any of the UNC buildings in the JSA."

After the talk, we proceeded to the JSA at Panmunjom. When we reached the Joint Security Area, we disembarked, and proceeded on foot. Our first destination was the MAC (Military Armistice Commission) Building. This is where all the peace talks held over the last fifty years have yielded spectacularly little success. At the centre of the room is a conference table. The microphones on it are monitored 24 hours a day, 365 days of the year. We were informed that those of us on the far side of the table from the door through which we entered are now standing in North Korea. I was. With us in the room were two Republic of Korea (ROK) soldiers, standing in a Taekwondo stance (to be more threatening to the other side apparently). Outside, the other ROK soldiers stand facing the North, half hidden behind the edges of buildings (to present a smaller target). It's all quite surreal. We were told of the petty extremes to which this stand-off has sunk. On the conference table is a small flag. Originally, when the UNC took a flag in, the N Koreans responded by bringing in a bigger one. The UNC's got bigger. The North's got bigger. This continued until neither flag could actually fit into the room. A meeting of the two sides was held specifically and solely to agree on a size limit to the table flags. Outside, we are informed that we are under constant surveillance by the N Koreans. No one must do anything provocative.

Next we proceeded to Checkpoint Bravo, from where we could get a good view across into North Korea. We could see the three storey loudspeaker which broadcasts propaganda for ten to twelve hours a day (usually throughout the night). Our guide informed us that this can be quite irritating if you're trying to sleep. We could see the propaganda signs above the tree line, which proclaim 'Yankees Go Home!', and 'Our General leads us to glory.', and my favorite, 'Another glorious victory for our 21st century sunshine leader Kim Jong-Il...Hoorah!' We could see the jamming antenna that ensures that the N Korean people receive no TV or radio signals from the outside world. They get what they're given and nothing else. But most of all we could see the two villages which exist inside the DMZ. One is in the North, and one in the South. The South is Daeseongdong (Great Success Village, although the Americans call it Freedom Village). Its residents get mixed blessings. On the upside, they are essentially autonomous. They're exempt from Korean taxation, and military service. The S Korean Government subsidizes their housing, and they earn a fortune thru rice sales (people say it's especially good, the DMZ rice). Conversely, they have to remain in the village for eight months of the year if they wish to retain citizenship. Moreover, they have to be back in the village by nightfall, and inside their homes with doors and windows secured by 11.00 pm. A 100m flagpole bearing the S Korean flag stands in the village.

The Northern counterpart is Gijongdong (Called by the Americans, Propaganda Village). Its residents....don't exist. The whole place is deserted. Our guide told us that they know this because the windows of the houses are just painted on the walls. During the day there are people in the village, but just to do some maintenance. A 160m flagpole (the tallest in the world) bearing a 30 x 20m North Korean flag weighing 300 kilos (the largest in the world) is in Gijongdong.

After this we stopped at the ‘Bridge of no Return'. It is called like this, because at the end of the Korean War, the people could choose if they would like to go to the North or the South. But only once. The people that crossed this bridge had made their decision. Usually, this bridge is not accessible for visitors, because it is a very dangerous place. It is where 'The Axe Murders Incident' happened. I could see a N Korean soldier very clearly on the other side of the bridge. The Swiss NNSC Major which joined us, was not very happy as an American Soldier which guided us, walked half way over the bridge. He said: "One step more, and the N Korean soldier will shoot."

The time had come to head back to Suwon. It's been a day of mixed experiences. There was the surrealism, the petty propaganda, the brutal reality of a war zone, but above all the overriding sense of the immense human sadness this whole situation has caused and continues to cause on a daily basis. Families have been divided. Individuals cannot know whether their loved ones are alive or dead. After a fifty year ceasefire, the Korean War is still not officially over. The only real piece of propaganda on the Southern side is a big sign, pointing north, which says "One People, One Nation." If only it were that simple...